ESP8266 Community Forum

- Sat May 16, 2015 4:45 pm #17594

With all do respect,

Why is that nodemcu board better?
Waiting for it to arrive from china takes more than 30 days to most countries.
My board costs less than 10 dollars incl. the esp module.
For most makers, making your own singlesided pcb is a matter of 20 minutes. And no struggle at all. It all depens on your skills...

i'm a beginner.. pls bear with me..
why u use 100uF tantalum capacitors in-out to LDO
in other circuits i have seen someone using in-100uF and out-1000uF,
another using two capacitors(ceramic) to in and out of LDO as shown in below image...


another in-4.7uF and out-10uF,

is there any difference between types(tantalum ceramic electrolytic etc) of caps we use...?
and what values of caps are best to use for esp-12..?
thanks..

Decoupling capas is not an accurate science, one usually goes by "rule of thumb". It is common to combine a 10 uF electrolyte and a 100 nF ceramic capa because the frequency response of the two types is different. The electrolytes take care of low frequency noise while the ceramics have better high frequency response. The ceramic should be as close to the consumer as possible, while the electrolyte is usually placed in a starpoint, where the voltage enters the board / module.

- Sun May 17, 2015 4:24 am #17626

The pdf does need to be mirrored. Since it is the top layer instead of the bottom layer.
In the .brd file, is there a diode on the very right, connected to ground? If not, than it is the correct V3 file. I'm not behind my computer now so i cannot check it.
if it is indeed the wrong file, i will update it asap.

The brd file has the diode, does not have the - symbol in the ground connection and also no resistor at the left top.

- Sun May 17, 2015 7:02 am #17646 I have uploaded the new zip file with the correct .brd file. This one should be good to go.

Some wifi a day, keeps the doctor away!
ESP-07 + DIY breadboard adapter

- Tue May 19, 2015 9:59 am #17861

The caps i used are what i had laying around. And these work fine with my board. Though you can always choose to put bigger caps on there, might you need it.

Tantalum capacitors are more precize and efficient than normal caps. But here goes the same, you may change them for normal caps.

Usually, the bigger the cap value, the bigger power fluctuations it can filter.

Thanks bro for ur help...!

Decoupling capas is not an accurate science, one usually goes by "rule of thumb". It is common to combine a 10 uF electrolyte and a 100 nF ceramic capa because the frequency response of the two types is different. The electrolytes take care of low frequency noise while the ceramics have better high frequency response. The ceramic should be as close to the consumer as possible, while the electrolyte is usually placed in a starpoint, where the voltage enters the board / module.

Thanks bro..! Will do as stated...